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TLF!POSTED | June 28, 2017

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Paris Fashion Week: Chanel S/S 2011

ENGLISH BELOW     Für seine aufwändigen Laufsteg-Installationen ist das Haus Chanel bekannt – man erinnere sich an den überdimensionalen Löwen letzte Saison, den riesigen, echten Eisberg, den Heuschober… Dieses Mal hatte Karl Lagerfeld sich vom Film aus dem Jahr 1961 „L’année dernière à Marienbad“ inspirieren lassen und einen, an die Schwarz-Weiß-Ästehtik des Films angelehnten, Skulpturenpark im Grand Palais errichten lassen. Die grafische Komposition spiegelte sich auch in der Kollektion wieder: Schwarz und Weiß dominierten den Look, der wie immer das Chanel-Tweed-Jäckchen in neue Zusammenhänge setzte. Das war allerdings nur ein Kleidungsstück, das in den über 80 Looks von Lagerfeld neu interpretiert wurde. Von der scheinbar zerlöcherten Jeans (auf die Chanel-Art natürlich) bis zum apricotfarbenen Federkleid, vorgeführt von Carmen Kass, war die Chanel-Show wie eine Reise durch verschiedene Epochen. Neben dem Schwarz-Weiß-Grau-Look in verschiedenen Materialien und Texturen, waren bunte Blumenprints ein zweites Thema. Aber alles in allem einmal mehr eine Show wie aus einem Guss.

ENGLISH TEXT     Karl Lagerfeld already came up with all kinds of flamboyant settings – think of the oversized lion last season, the melting ice rock or the haystack. He just knows how to create a moment to remember. This time, for Chanel‘s Spring/Summer prestentation 2011, Lagerfeld had chosen a black-and-white sculpture garden as a background and runway, inspired by the French 60’s movie „L’annee derniere at Marienbad“. And also fashion-wise spoken a black-and-white aesthetic dominated the look which was somehow the same as it ever was: very Chanel-esque but like a journey through different time periods. From the classic Chanel costume to some kind-of-futuristic monochrome dresses to feather boleros to flower prints that looked like they were inspired by Sicily in the 1950’s to frayed, skintight jeans.

Well, Karl had enough room to play with all those looks – there was over 80 looks for the audience to look at. Model-wise spoken, there was hardly any model to be spotted twice on the catwalk. Well, Stella Tennant was – who also opened the show. And Freja Beha Erichsen who opened a lot of other shows this season. More is more at Chanel.

Ines de La Fressange poses alongside German designer Karl Lagerfeld in the Grand Palais after walking the runway for the Chanel Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2011 show by Lagerfeld during Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France on October 5, 2010. Ines de la Fressange, who was signed by Karl Lagerfeld in 1983 as the living embodiment of Chanel, and stayed that way until 1990, when she broke her contract over an argument with Lagerfeld, is back in good graces at the house. De La Fressange has also been signed up as the face of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2011 campaign alongside Freja Beha Erichsen and Stella Tennant. Photo by Frederic Nebinger/ABACAPRESS.COM Photo via Newscom

Und einige der weiblichen Gäste bei der Chanel-Show…Leigh Lezark, Claudia Schiffer, Viriginie Ledoyen, Vanessa Paradis, Rachel Bilson, Elisa Sednaoui, Lou Doillon, Clemence Poesy und Anna Mouglalis.

Some female guest at the Chanel show: Leigh Lezark, Claudia Schiffer, Viriginie Ledoyen, Vanessa Paradis, Rachel Bilson, Elisa Sednaoui, Lou Doillon, Clemence Poesy und Anna Mouglalis.

PARIS - OCTOBER 05: Leigh Lezark attends the Chanel Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2011 show during Paris Fashion Week at Grand Palais on October 5, 2010 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images) PARIS - OCTOBER 05: Claudia Schiffer attends the Chanel Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2011 show during Paris Fashion Week at Grand Palais on October 5, 2010 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images) PARIS - OCTOBER 05: Virginie Ledoyen attends the Chanel Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2011 show during Paris Fashion Week at Grand Palais on October 5, 2010 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images) PARIS - OCTOBER 05: Vanessa Paradis attends the Chanel Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2011 show during Paris Fashion Week at Grand Palais on October 5, 2010 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images) PARIS - OCTOBER 05: Rachel Bilson attends the Chanel Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2011 show during Paris Fashion Week at Grand Palais on October 5, 2010 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images) PARIS - OCTOBER 05: Elisa Sednaoui attends the Chanel Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2011 show during Paris Fashion Week at Grand Palais on October 5, 2010 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images) PARIS - OCTOBER 05: Lou Doillon attends the Chanel Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2011 show during Paris Fashion Week at Grand Palais on October 5, 2010 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images) PARIS - OCTOBER 05: Anna Mouglalis attends the Chanel Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2011 show during Paris Fashion Week at Grand Palais on October 5, 2010 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images) PARIS - OCTOBER 05: Clemence Poesy attends the Chanel Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2011 show during Paris Fashion Week at Grand Palais on October 5, 2010 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)

Und ein Ausschnitt des Films „L’année dernière à Marienbad“

A famous sequence of the movie “L’année dernière à Marienbad”

Comments

  1. Olivier

    Nice research. Well done!

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